A Bolognese with zero tomatoes might sound wrong. And yet, Kay Chun’s Shiitake Mushroom Bolognese Bianco is one of the most satisfying, unbelievably cozy pastas we’ve encountered. Ever. An Asian-inspired riff on white Bolognese, the recipe — from The New York Times contributor's debut cookbook, Gather Around My Table — combines a classic mirepoix (a fancy word for diced celery, onion, and carrots) with earthy mushrooms, caramelized miso, ground pork, soy sauce, guanciale, and fresh herbs for a deeply meaty ragù, without the hours-long simmer. Add al dente noodles, pasta water, and a heap of Parm — and you’ll have a dinner that’s “holy shiitake” levels of delicious.
The Time Commitment: A little over an hour, plus prep.
Key Tips: While the recipe calls for ground pork, Chun says ground beef, turkey, or chicken are equally good. And the Bolognese freezes well for up to three months — so double the recipe and consider it a gift to future you.
Shiitake Mushroom Bolognese Bianco
Bolognese bianco is a beautifully deep and savory pasta sauce made without tomatoes. Here, the classic mirepoix is joined by earthy shiitake mushrooms, soy sauce, and miso, creating a rich foundation that results in a meatier-tasting ragú. Guanciale does boost the pork flavor but is optional. The milk not only helps tenderize the meat but also balances the salty soy sauce and builds a luscious sauce. The bolognese freezes well for up to 3 months; simply thaw it, then reheat until it’s warm throughout.
Serves 4
Ingredients
3 tablespoons extra- virgin olive oil
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
1/2 cup finely chopped carrot
1/4 cup finely chopped celery
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 ounces shiitake mushroom caps, finely chopped (about 11/2 cups)
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon white miso
12 ounces ground pork
3 cups low- sodium chicken broth
2 tablespoons low- sodium soy sauce
1 dried shiitake mushroom
1- ounce piece guanciale (optional)
1/2 cup whole milk
1 small fresh rosemary sprig
3 fresh basil sprigs
1 pound short pasta, such as rigatoni
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for serving
Chopped fresh parsley and red pepper flakes (optional), for garnish
Instructions:
In a large Dutch oven or pot, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium- low heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery, season with salt and black pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the shiitake mushroom caps, season with salt and black pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, the garlic, and the miso and cook, stirring, until the miso is lightly caramelized, about 2 minutes. Add the pork, season with salt and black pepper, and cook, breaking up the pork, until it’s no longer pink, about 3 minutes. Add the broth, soy sauce, dried shiitake, and guanciale (if using) and bring to a simmer.
Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes. Stir in the milk, rosemary, and basil, cover, and reduce the heat to low. Cook until the liquid is reduced but still saucy, about 15 minutes. Discard the herb sprigs. Transfer the dried shiitake mushroom and guanciale to a cutting board, finely chop, and add them back to the sauce.
When the sauce is almost done, cook the pasta: Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season the water with salt and cook the pasta according to the package directions until a few minutes shy of al dente (it will finish cooking in the sauce). Reserve 1 ½ cups of the pasta water and drain.
To the bolognese sauce, add the pasta, 1 cup of the reserved pasta water, and the butter and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring constantly, until most of the liquid is absorbed and the pasta is saucy, about 2 minutes, adding more of the reserved pasta water if necessary. Turn off the heat and stir in the cheese until well incorporated. Season with salt and black pepper.
Divide the pasta in bowls. Top with more cheese and black pepper, garnish with parsley and red pepper flakes, if using, and serve warm.
Other Takes: For more fall pastas we’d bathe in if we could, try…
Winter Squash Pasta with Chile & Toasted Garlic. Just when we thought Alison Roman couldn’t top The Pasta, along came this endlessly adaptable weeknight dinner with a garlic-chile oil you’ll want to put on everything.
Pumpkin Vodka Pasta with Spicy Breadcrumbs. That can of pumpkin you keep meaning to bake muffins with? Mix it up with tomato paste, vodka, and cream instead for a 45-minute dish that you’ll probably make every other week — at least.
Creamy Calabrian Chili Pappardelle with Sausage & Fennel. A spicy, restaurant-caliber bowl of goodness that, in the words of one fan, “looks worthy of candles and the good wine.” No arguments here.
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